Fine Dining comes to London


“ London’s the greatest place in the world to eat!” proclaim the gourmet mags, always desperate for something new to say about the (second) oldest human activity. There’s an element of truth in it, so long as you eat ethnic and in the outer boroughs.


Escoffier Room  This bargain restaurant is attached to a training college, but what came out of the kitchen was to a standard that would have made us happy if we’d been paying Michelin prices. NEW

 

Tamada Georgian Restaurant The breaking of Shoti Puri' and the quaffing of Satrapezo could restore, not only your bodily well being, but even your faith in the human race! NEW

 

The Narrow  Gordon Ramsey in Limehouse threatens to give gastropubs a good name.

 

Wild Honey A fine new cutting from Arbutus, potted in deepest Mayfair, in which a CEO and a secretary might well dine at adjoining tables.  

 

Bloom's  When I came to London from America forty years ago, it was the only decent restaurant open on Christmas Day. 

 

Tea at Claridges Afternoon tea doesn't get any better than this.

 

Arbutus As close to an elegant bistro as you can get in Soho, and at pre-theatre prices you could hardly match in a run-of-the-mill gastropub.

 

Café Spice Namasté The Parsis' modern prophet is the cordial and multi-talented chef, Cyrus Todiwala.

 

Photographers' Gallery Café A simple snack bar as it might exist in Plato’s heaven.

 

maze “The best new restaurant in London!” says almost everyone. (It's just got its first Michelin star.) If you like small dishes and loud music, you may agree.

 

Jimmy’s A half-century-old time capsule in a Soho basement, with cheap, decent Greek food. Such places are going fast.

 

Hunan “Are you still hungry?” asked the young Chinese waiter. What a question! With such nectar and ambrosia we could not have said no.

 

Brasserie Roux A harmless, inoffensive place, not outrageously expensive, but a brasserie in name only, emasculated for the anonymous international market.

 

Racine With its careful balance of quality, authenticity and economy, Racine appears to be getting it about right.

 

L'Escargot Good traditional cooking, quietly attentive service, modest elegance and a music-free ambience that permitted unforced conversation.

 

Chez Bruce Chez Bruce is “modern French”, showing its roots but original, even surprising, without descending into vulgar eccentricity.

 

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