Hither and Yon
Where to go and where to get off
During my years of concert touring—sometimes alone, sometimes with agreeable companions—I discovered early that one of life’s greatest joys is travelling at another’s expense. In my journeys around Europe and the US I sometimes kept notes from which I could later extrapolate adventures even more remarkable and meals even more delectable than those I had actually experienced. Here’s a selection:
Blown by the winds to Siena Sometimes an exhibition of art from a particular time and place reaches out, grabs you by the scruff of the neck and hauls you away to its city of origin. Nine pages of great architecture and satisfying meals. NEW
Auberge La Grange du Cros is a rural bistro near Saillac in the Lot. The menu cards on the table offered four courses and wine for a modest fifteen euros. Had we perhaps entered a soup kitchen in Plato’s heaven?
Consuming Carinthia Ten days in southern Austria reminded us of what life in Europe used to be like and suggested why it isn’t any more.
Eating Up Sicily, in a dozen mouthfuls Mary and I are just back from ten days spent haunting the fishpots of Palermo. In this magical mystery tour, we take you from Shanghai to Paradise, with stops along the way at The Leopard and Robin’s Grotto
Hôtel Jules César, Restaurant Lou Marquès, Arles Dressed like a pauper, I was treated like a prince.
Cassoulet Déjà vu: living low off the hog in Najac Two cassoulets within two months—this could become a habit!
Dordogne hotel restaurants Some gems, large and small, from our 2002 tour, plus a couple of worthless baubles.
The fishermen of Graisana—another endangered species. The descendent of generations of fishermen could become the curator of a museum
If the Loire’s too crowded, come south to Bergerac France has so many areas of beauty and fascination that there just aren’t enough tourists to go around.
A Twice-Told Tale I set out in search of the legendary food of France and found the Holy Grail.
A Hotel in Heaven When you’re driving alone on a mountain road after dark on a winter’s night, with no hotels in prospect, there’s nothing like the sight of . . .
Cassoulet Country For a cassoulet fanatic to drive through southern France without visiting the shrine of the God of Occitan would be like a Catholic passing through Rome and skipping the Vatican.
On the Road with the Gastrogypsies Touring France in a VW Westfalia—meandering about the empty D-roads, seeking out the vestigial remnants of honest unpretentious rural cuisine
It's déjà vu all over again. . .
Berlin Revisited 1998 The wall was down, the skyscrapers were going up.
Merlangius mersans, or Whiting Immersed Midwinter 1996 in Harstad, the year's first sun performed its magic.
Two francs for the milk or Through Switzerland with open wallet This being Switzerland, money was not only the medium of exchange but also the means of communication.
Wild in Middle America 1996 Culture comes to Cleveland.
I Love Rain or Soddenly last summer For us, the Île de Ré was indeed the Isle of Rain—its virtues were largely negative.
Paris sans football 1998 James Wood lets the alphorn speak its Mountain Language in IRCAM, the subterranean stronghold of electroacoustic music.
Romania, Paranoia 1986 Romania was the only Warsaw Pact country in which I felt everywhere an ominous presence.
Return to TOP
